The original brochure vol. 2

I got hold of another original brochure. In fact it where from Selden Denmark. They had one in the old archives.  If any has other originals with more text etc. would i really love to a hold of them scanned or else :)

Please enjoy!!

The first four is from one folder.

This one is in better form in vol. 1

Look at the winch placement the first models had them on the cockpit edge.

Nice sailing in Denmark.

The original upholstery the nicest i think.

The quaterberth in stead of cupboards

De stepping the mast

De stepping the mast for inspection and winter storage. We usely do take the mast down every winter to chck it and take the boat out of the water. This year the boat stays in the sea but the mast has to come of for som minor work.

I just begin with taking the instruments off before using the crane to take so i don't smash them in the process.

De mounting of the instruments: wind, windex and VHF

Good to be more then two people to de steeping the mast. I have good friends that help :)

Loosening all the turnbuckles.

Turnbuckle teamwork.

Disconnecting the mast electronics inside the boat.

Him self in the mast. Good tip is to attach the crane a bit over the balance point.

Attaching the crane.

Preparing the crane for the big lift.

Again placing the hook for the crane.

All the halyards has bin taken out for washing. the mast has been washed and preped with Hempel Alu protcect. Ready for inspection by Stolz Riggerservice. 

Result of the service showed that the mast where in good condition after 30 years (1984) on the high seas. The stays has to be chanced in the comming years beginning with the backstay a new has been ordered for april the others will be chanced next winter. 

Mast ready for the winter.

The new home for the mast juring the winter.

Ready to place the mast in the shed.

The original price list anno 1983

Found a copy of the original price list on a Dutch website. Check it out its in Danish only sorry for the international reader. If there should be a wish for it i can translate it?

Extract from the Dutch list. All there was on Bianca Lido.

Cockpit teak refurbishment for winter

I did a little prep work in the teak en the cockpit prepping it for the coming winter. I don't cover the boat so the teak needed some TLC to get it through the winter.

Sanding the cockpit benches.

I sanded the cockpit with sandpaper 100 at first and finished it with 150 gran.

More sanding.

After sanding the teak I treated it with a thick paste of soap. Mixed thick of soap flakes and the just covering the teak with it three time then letting it rest over night and washed the rest of the soap treatment of. i got some help from the rain but it has to set over 24 hours.

Soaping!!.

Soaping in a thick layer.

More teak in the companionway.

Nice cofee enjoying the result of the hard work.

End result.

Closeup.

New and old cleats and rope clutch's from Easylock

I had the problem with the number cleats that came with the boat when i bought it. It laked the correct number off cleats. The boat is outfitted with deck organisers for ten sheats/ halyards. The boat laked three...

The boat as it came with only seven cleats.

I planned to outfit the boat with: 3 halyards (main, genua and spinnaker), 1 spi- downhaler, 1 boom vang, 1 outhal, 1 cunningham, 2 main reflines and boom uphal.

Easylock Midi - cleaning.

I bought two Easylock Midi - double (gray) used on the web. Cleaned them and the old Easylock Maxi - trible and Easylock 1 - trible.

The inside similar to the Maxi.

The cleats is okay easy to clean just keep track of where everything is going. I just cleaned everything in dishwashing soap and it worked out fine.

Almost new. Works great.

Portside.

Two halyards are moved to the portside off the boat. Because it's here the two gear winch is. Wich makes it a lot easyer to get the right tension on the forestay and the main. Here you see the two halyards (main and genua) the boom uphal and outhal. the last place is for the second ref ind the main.

Starboard.

Here we have the boom vang, first ref main, spi- downhal, cunningham and spi- halyard.

New charger with Sterling Power

The old charger died a slow death and the need fore a new one occurred. The old where a Tystor black one. It started to overheat and smell of "burnt" electronics. The hunt was on fore a new one and after a big search through the market (Mastervolt, Ctec, Victron etc)  where the conclusion that it should be Sterling Pro Charge Ultra Battery Charger 12 volt / 30 Amp. It won a couple of big test (See the link) and it can  start charging from a shore power supply of only 105 volts. And a very good article on the choices in choosing a new charger here: ChargingIt: Not All Battery Chargers are Created Equal. Another very important feature is its super quiet compared to a Tystor and has no problem living in a cupboard.

The new charger Sterling Pro 12 volt/ 30 amp. Charger.

Still a small job to do with cleaning up the cable and strapping it down. Now a cable runs to every single battery 2 x 105 amp consumer  batt. and 1 x 60 amp starter batt. Enough to run the ship at anchor with instruments, lighting and fridge for 3 days 247. I sailed alone with all instruments on and sailling only by autopilot and the voltage did not run under 12 volt in 33 hours.

The old Tystor charger.

Raymarine Autopilot

Project of upgrading the boat with internally autopilot has proven a great success but it was hard work!!  There  is a lot of work is in tight spaces behind the cockpit. There is some hard work in modifying the rudder shaft to hold the tiller lever arm. The rudder has to come off, the rudder well has to be cut and the top rudder bering welded in place. A reflexion if I where to do it again i would chance the rudder bearings to new during this procces, All in all i used 30 hours off work time, with a lot of help from friends and about 10 to 20 different work prosses. Deffently the hardest work i have done on the boat to date.

The system where tested with great succes again during this summer'14 and the Silverrudder singlehand race. The system funktion best with a low response rate. I use 2 both in wind mode and compas mode. This system is the S1G with the Gyroplus II this gives a good and strong response to waves.

Illustration of placemnet of autopilot drive motor components. 

1) Ruddershaft with tiller lever from Jefa. The rudder wheel has to be cut in order to mount the arm on the shaft.

2) Shelf for mounting the rudder position sensor.

3) Shelf for mounting the drive unit - Raymarine type 1.

Princepel sketch of aligning the autopilot drive to the rudder shaft.

1) Placement on the rudder shaft is critical to correct function of the autopilot. But on a Bianca Lido there aren't enough room to fit The Raymarine type 1 drive according to the manual. You have to make adjustments: 1. Angle of attachment/ attack of  tiller lever. 2. Move the drive point of attachment in from 250 mm. to 200 mm (check Jefa site for details) 3. Place the drive according to that.  4. All of this has to be done due to fit the autopilot drive with the boats original rudder stops.

2) Drive must be placed at the end of the space behind the cockpit at an angle to fit the Raymarine drive type 1. MOST IMPORTANT!!!! keep the angle between the tiller lever and drive as close to 90 gr. ass possible otherwise the stroke radius wont work.

Illustration of Raymarine system install on a Bianca Lido.

1) Placement of Raymarine Flux Gate Compas. Just under the seat as far to the centerline of the boat. It works great under sail.

2) Placement for the Raymarine S1 Smartpilot and Raymarine Gyroplus II in the cupboard under the nav station. (se picture)

3) Connecting the Seatalk cable to the other Raymarine instruments wind etc.

4) The drive installation in the room behind the cockpit and cockpit locker.

5) Cables pathway in between drive and smartpilot; seatalk, power, clucth and rudder position sensor.

Raymarine Type 1 drive.

Princip in monting the drive on a shelf.

Cupboard with; Raymarine S1 Smartpilot and Gyroplus II.

Rout off Seatalk cable and power cable in between instruments.

Cables in between drive and Smartpilot etc.

Drive installation. 

Tiller lever ith two connection's; drive and sensor.
Mark the rudder well where cut 300 mm abowe the buttom bearing.

Cable connector for easy service and replacement of autopilot components. 

Spinnaker sailling

The first to small tryouts with the new spinnaker was a good experience.

One day with 1 - 2,5 m/s the sail poled nicely around 1 to 3,5 kn. in the light air. But the learning from this thin air is that we should use smaller dimension off sheets maybe 8 mm. to reduce the weight of the sheet on the sail.

The other day light winds 5 - 6 m/s the sail poled OK again but felt a that it maybe a bit to small 80 kvm it should be around maybe 100 kvm? Besides that we sailed about 5 to 6 kn.

Learning place the spinnaker pool high on the mast 50 cm under the motor lamp.

Light wind 1 - 3 m/s.

Light wind 1 - 3 m/s.

Wind 5 - 6 m/s.

 

Wind 5 - 6 m/s.

Wind 5 - 6 m/s.

 

First small easter trip

The boat got in the water and we got away for some first short trips off the year sailing this Easter. Just sailing outside the harbour. We did one sleep over it where COLD!!

the view from Øresund towards the harbour.

The boat got a dockside rig tuning because there weren't any tuning guide with the boat.  It was decided that it was in good order to get it tuned. It got really hard and nice. I have the measures but i am not really sure on the % of each stay but here it goes.

We used http://www.riggerservice.dk/ and where really satisfied with the service and we can recommend it.

• top stay - 17 to 20 %
• back stay - 16  but should be over 20 % but the stay where to long new one is needed.
• intermediate shrouds - 15 %
• fore shrouds - 20 %
• back shrouds - 18 %

Furling genua nice tension on the stay but it should be hirer.

Main sail.

Good speed 8.6 kn off wind 7.3 kn of speed.

Sunset over Copenhagen.

The shrouds after dock side tunning.

Really nice weather.